Right at this moment there’s a little black girl sitting in front of a mirror struggling to tame her hair. It is big, unruly and coarse. When she comes home from school she tells her mother about Sindi’s soft hair and long ponytail. And just like that she makes her way to the hairdresser for her first relaxer. ‘Weave’ all been here before.

Right at this moment there’s a little black girl sitting in front of a mirror struggling to tame her hair. It is big, unruly and coarse. When she comes home from school she tells her mother about Sindi’s soft hair and long ponytail. And just like that she makes her way to the hairdresser for her first relaxer. ‘Weave’ all been here before.

What is it with black women and hair – especially long, straight hair? Most people think this obsession has to do with the issue of identity. Black women straightening their hair and putting in hair extensions is seen as an attempt to make them look like white women, because long hair is associated with some degree of sophistication. The media has certainly played a role in promoting this culture. Very few black American artists keep their hair in their natural form and this image is sold to us in music videos, movies, advertising, magazines and fashion houses. The longer, more expensive and more ‘real’ it appears the better.

Some girls are adamant that they don’t use weaves to look like white girls. Natural hair is simply too much maintenance and weaves makes their hair grow faster. They just want healthy hair. They are willing to put up with the side effects – a receding hairline and an itchy scalp (evident by the occasional hits to the head, especially on a hot day).

It is almost impossible to talk about hair without raising issues of identity. Hair is a natural feature of the human body. It is worn in different styles. Usually for black women, hair doesn't naturally exceed shoulder-lenght, and this can be limiting. It’s brittle, thin and breaks. Not all of us have the luxury of cutting and growing hair as fast as we want it. Hair extensions are a better alternative, providing a way for women to express themselves and try something new. Some women want long hair, not to look like someone else, but to look ‘prettier’. The idea is that ‘long silky hair makes you beautiful’.

Some black guys just don’t get the logic behind the weave. The ones we spoke to didn’t have a major issue with weaves (for the sake of maintaining peace in their relationships) although they said they prefer their women to keep their hair natural. For them this is what signifies a woman’s true beauty. Putting in a weave means they don’t appreciate what they have. But it’s not just black men who share this view. A black girl who recently went on holiday with her white boyfriend, had to explain why she couldn’t swim and had to assure him that she had her real hair underneath the weave. The guy genuinely wanted to see and run his fingers through her natural hair, but before he caould she had to forewarn him about the bumps and tracks of her braided hair beneath her weave.

There are certain social perceptions with different hairstyles – the way you wear your hair says something about who you are. Women who wear their in its natural form are perceived as being poetic, ancestral and down-to-earth. For women, however, it is a sign of beauty, and some point out that it makes them feel more confident and self-assured.

But we really don’t need to get political about weaves. Why can’t it be seen as an extension of a (black) woman’s personality? Like an evolving fashion accessory or a work of art – nothing to do with an identity crisis or lack of self-esteem. American artist, India Arie is spot on when she says ‘I am not my hair’.

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