By Sindisiwe Tshona and Iphendulwe Sigwebela
In the heart of Makhanda, a unique culinary gem thrives, blending traditions from across the Indian Ocean into a beloved local institution. For our heritage series, we sat down with Liaqat Ali, the passionate owner of House of Curry, to discover the story behind the spices.
Hailing from Pakistan and a resident of South Africa for two decades, Liaqat identified a gap in the city’s food scene. Tired of the limited options, he was inspired to create a place for traditional Asian food, specialising in the beloved cuisines of Pakistan, India, and South Africa. He proudly states that his shop is the only one of its kind in Makhanda, a fact confirmed by loyal customers who often call in orders from as far as Port Alfred.
The menu is a vibrant tapestry of these cultures. From the rich, creamy butter chicken to the iconic South African bunny chow, and the famously fragrant beef and chicken biryanis that sell out every Friday, there’s something for everyone. The secret, Liaqat reveals, is in the handmade spice blends. They carefully select and mix their own organic spices, a craft learned from chefs, ensuring every curry is bursting with authentic, layered flavour.
When asked what heritage means to him, Liaqat simply calls it an “old background”, something that comes from far away. For him, the connection to his Pakistani roots is most powerfully evoked by one thing: the roti. This traditional flatbread has found a new home in Makhanda, where it’s been enthusiastically adopted by locals as a “roti wrap”, filled with delicious curries and enjoyed by students, farmers, and families alike.
To truly understand, we tried the chicken roti wrap. It was a revelation, fresh, hot from the pot, and perfectly balanced. The chili provided a gentle, lingering warmth without overwhelming the palate, all wrapped in a soft, flavourful roti. It was our first time, but it certainly won’t be our last.
The House of Curry is more than just a restaurant; it’s a place where heritage is served hot and fresh.
