We were planning a holiday at the Great Fish River Reserve, then Jenny calls to say she’s won the Grocott’s prize of a weekend for four at one of the Mvubu Chalets, and wouldn’t Sukh and I like to join her and Ofer.
We were planning a holiday at the Great Fish River Reserve, then Jenny calls to say she’s won the Grocott’s prize of a weekend for four at one of the Mvubu Chalets, and wouldn’t Sukh and I like to join her and Ofer.
The weather promised heat, so we left early Saturday, entering the Reserve from at the Kamadolo Gate, a 20-minute drive from Grahamstown.
We first did a leisurely game drive, followed by a visit to a hide overlooking a large pool and meadow where we spent an hour with binoculars and camera, spotting song and water birds, buck and hog.
We then headed down to the Double Drift picnic site, driving through the Bucklands Private Game Reserve en route.
Each kilometre promising more and better, we stopped along the way at the eerie remains of Fort Double Drift.
Then we picnicked near the river, accompanied by a large land tortoise whose pensive and patient eyes spoke novels (“Okay, gawk for a bit; then let me be…”).
After lunch, we drove across the drift and headed to Mvubu, enjoying the spectacular landscape.
First impressions upon arrival: well-maintained, charming chalets set side by side, enough privacy for comfort, each boasting from its deck a spectacular view of the Great Fish River, rich brown and rippling, and the mountains of its valley across and beyond.
Spotted a fish eagle hunkering on a rock in the river, casually awaiting a less than wary meal.
The double-story chalet held a separate kitchen, an ablution facility and double bed downstairs.
Outside, a deck hanging over this side of the valley, with picnic table and fireplace for braaiing Upstairs, a loft with two twin beds.
Clean and neat; battery-powered lights; flush loo; shower and sinks; bucket of potable water; gas stove and fridge; bedding and towels – all supplied.
We then visit what Ofer claims is “the most beautiful landscape in South Africa” – viewable from a sturdy platform at Adams Krans, located on cliffs high above the Great Fish River.
Indeed it was magnificent: rippling green mountainsides enclosing the tawny river that snakes between them, lazily finding its way through and out.
A 40-degree next day is due, so we decide to head out at 5.30am for a five-hour hike.
Greeted on time by rangers Sipho and Isithemba – Sipho carrying an AK-47 just in case.
‘Just in case’ meant hippo, rhino, buffalo.
The foursome plus two set out on a cool morning, lighted with a rising sun still hidden behind the eastern ridge.
Hippos stayed away but we did see sign and spore of others and long-distance glimpses and brief encounters with bush buck, song birds and raptors.
Our guides were knowledgeable, good-humoured and helpful when needed.
The hiking was moderate, with some scrambling to a bit of rock art. It was a wonderful and nearby soft adventure.
