By Nomfundo Mbatha and Zoliswa Mdawini
In a world where fashion is always chasing the next trend, designed Oyama Gonintebe redefines contemporary fashion by blending bold Xhosa heritage with modern design. Her work transforms “Umbhaco”, a traditional Xhosa garment known for its rich fabric and texture, into vibrant, layered pieces that honour history while resonating with today’s audience. Infused with symbolic patterns, vivid colours, and intricate beadwork, her designs celebrate the identity and traditions of the amaXhosa.
Born in Mthatha, Gonintebe grew up surrounded by a rich Xhosa culture. From a young age, she saw more than just clothing. “I was drawn to how clothing could tell a story,” she says. Her grandmother’s Xhosa outfits, full of beads and layers, left a big impression. “Every bead, every layer spoke volumes. Watching people respond to her presence made me realize that what we wear can carry immense power,” she remembers.
The Cape Town College of Fashion Design graduate showcased her latest collection, “Isidima Somfazi” (Dignity of Women), at this year’s South African Fashion Week in Johannesburg. The Spring/Summer line was a hit, with earthy tones, flowing fabrics, and bold shapes that felt strong yet graceful. “It was about quiet strength,” Gonintebe explained. “A kind of elegance that didn’t shout but was deeply felt,” she added.
She says that the Spring/Summer collection builds naturally on the foundation laid by the Autumn/Winter 2024 collection “but it also marks an exciting shift. While Autumn/Winter was more about heavier textures, deeper tones, and layered storytelling, this new collection feels lighter, more fluid, and more open — both in fabric and in spirit,” she explained. For Gonintebe, “Umbhaco” is at the heart of her work. “It is more than just traditional clothing — it carries stories of identity, ceremony, and pride.”
In 2023 she got a big break as a finalist in the Mr Price New Talent Search. “It was a moment of validation,” she says, “but also a reminder to dream even bigger.” However, working with culture is not always easy. She defines the challenges as sometimes a “double-edged sword”.
“The challenge of balancing authenticity with innovation — making sure I stay true to my roots while still appealing to a global, contemporary market.” People love the uniqueness of her designs, but some do not understand the deep meaning behind them. She has had to challenge stereotypes and explain that African fashion is not just a trend — it is a living, breathing culture.
